This article was created for eBay via Fractl in fall 2014.
You could just get your car professionally serviced for everything. Many people do, and there’s no shame in that. (Perhaps a little.) But with a bit of knowledge you can save money, save time, and enjoy the satisfaction of doing some maintenance yourself—even without a garage.
Here is some guidance on where to work on your car and what jobs you can do in a small space.
Where to Work on Your Car
“I will fix the fucker wherever it rolls to a stop.” That’s one attitude from an eloquent car forum user.
Ideally, however, you want to pick a place where you can:
- Park your car safely.
- Work on it without pissing people off.
Creative apartment dwellers have come up with numerous solutions.
Home: If you have a parking space, check the rules of your complex or homeowner’s association because restrictions are common. As an alternative, consider using a friend or family member’s home.
Street: Not ideal. You may not be visible to other drivers if you squat, etc.
Business: A business may not mind if you’re a paying customer, quick, and out of the way. Car forum users suggest using the lot of the store where you just bought your new auto parts, your self-serve car wash, or a gas station after you fill up.
If anyone hassles you, just be honest: you had a car concern and had to make sure it wasn’t an emergency. You’ll be moving along as quickly as possible so you can get back home to your elderly grandma/contagiously ill roommate/birthing cat/etc.
If you want to do anything major to your car or to tinker every weekend, look for a car club or a self-service garage where you can rent space by the hour.
For Motorcycles/Bikes
The same basic rules apply, but you may get away with additional options such as working on a sidewalk or taking the equipment inside your apartment. (Yes, up the stairs or elevator.)
Use your judgment. Damages to your building would likely outweigh anything you save on your vehicle repair.
Seven Small Jobs for Small Spaces
If you’re new to car maintenance, start with the simplest tasks and work your way up. Remember that difficulty levels and instructions will vary depending on your car make and model.
Tips:
- Get your car manual. Actually consult your car manual.
- Look for online videos or tutorials, and check out mobile apps such as AutoMD and RepairPal.
- When in doubt, get a walkthrough the first time around from a live, knowledgeable human. If you can find one.
Replace Your Wiper Blades
Tools: None
Time: 10 minutes
Cost: About $10 to $25
Lift the wipers outward from the windshield and look for a tab on the underside to remove the old blades. Slide the new ones on, referring to the package for instructions if needed. This should be a breeze. Usually.
Replace Your Air Filter
Tools: None
Time: 10 minutes
Cost: About $7 to $50
Pop the hood of your car and look for a rectangular black box. Open the clips, take out the old filter, and put the new filter in the same way. Close the case and clips. Proceed to kick yourself for ever having paid for this service.
Check and Top Off Fluids
Tools: Rag or paper towel, funnel set (about $3), tarp (about $15)
Time: About 5 -10 minutes each
Cost: Motor oil – about $15 to $30 per 5-quart bottle
Coolant/antifreeze – about $10 to $20 per gallon
Transmission fluid – about $5 to $10 per quart
Brake fluid – about $10 to $20 per 32-ounce bottle
Windshield-washer fluid – about $2 to $10 per gallon
Power steering fluid – about $5 to $10 per 12-ounce bottle
See your manufacturer’s recommendations on how often to check/replace each fluid. Park on a flat, level surface. You’ve got this.
Motor oil: Let your car cool down, open your hood, and find the oil dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean. Push it back in, pull it out again, and see if the oil comes up to the indicator mark on your dipstick. If needed, add more oil. Changing oil is a job that involves jacking up your car, so it may not be acceptable for your chosen parking spot.
Coolant: Find and remove the radiator cap while the car is cool. You should see a line indicating the desired level. If it’s low, add more of the same kind of coolant.
Transmission fluid: checking this is similar to checking your motor oil, but is done with the car running. You’re not looking at fluid volume, but quality. It should look red; if it looks brown or smells burned, it’s time to replace it.
Brake fluid: Look for the brake fluid reservoir on the driver’s side of your car. The fluid should appear golden; if it’s brown, replace it.
Windshield-washer fluid: The reservoir is usually found near the base of the windshield and is translucent so you can see the fluid level. Refill it to the mark and replace the cap.
Power steering fluid: This reservoir should be labeled. If it’s translucent, check visually; if not, it should have a dipstick. Refill as needed.
Check Tire Pressure
Tools: tire pressure gauge (about $6 to $20)
Time: 5-10 minutes
Cost: Air – free to about $1
Check when tires are cold. Remove each tire’s valve cap and press the gauge onto each valve stem for about two seconds. Compare the readings to the inflation pressure specified in your owner’s manual or shown on a sticker on the driver’s doorjamb. If you need more air, you should be able to refill your tires at a gas station for free or for a minimal cost.
Check/Clean Battery Terminals
Tools: Wrenches (about $30 to $60), wire brush (about $2 to $7) or old toothbrush, rags
Time: 20 minutes
Cost: battery cleaning fluid (about $7 per container) or baking soda mixed with water
Check for any residue on the battery and clamps. With your car turned off, loosen the nut on the negative (-) cable clamp first and remove the cable from the post. Then do the positive (+) cable.
Remove the residue with your cleaning solution and brush. Then wash away the residue and cleaning solution, dry the posts, and replace the battery terminals.
Replace Spark Plugs
Tools: Ratchet wrench (about $20 to $40), 12” socket extension (about $6 to $14), spark plug socket (about $11 to $38 per set)
Time: 20 to 30 minutes
Cost: spark plugs – about $10 to $30
Locate your spark plugs by following the big rubbery wires under your hood to their ends.
Remove the first plug using your spark plug socket and the extension on your ratchet. Screw in the new spark plug by hand, and then tighten it gently with a wrench and re-attach the spark plug wire. Repeat for each additional spark plug, one at a time, so you don’t confuse which ones go where.
Replace Distributor Cap and Rotor
Tools: Screwdriver (about $8 and up per set), socket set (about $10 to $30) and ratchet (about $20 to $40)
Time: about 30 minutes
Cost: Distributor cap and rotor kit – about $15 to $25
The distributor is the item with all of the spark plug wires running out of it. Remove the cap without pulling off the wires. If the cap is secured with bolts or screws, remove them.
Next, remove the plastic rotor located under the distributor cap. Some have a bolt or screw to remove. Slide the new rotor into place and re-install any bolts or screws.
Transfer the spark plug wires from the old distributor cap to the new cap one at a time to avoid mixing them up. Reinstall the distributor cap.
You’re so confident now that you want more.
What Next
Additional small-space, do-it-yourself car jobs can include replacing your battery; replacing fuses; replacing some lightbulbs/lamps; using a dent removal kit; applying touch-up paint; and more. Once you’re comfortable getting hands-on with your car, the sky is the limit. (Well, the paint lines on the pavement are the limit.)