It’s best to start with a basic bra. Skip the specialty types until you need them. Strapless bras, for instance, are only worth the trouble for a spare dress or top. On the other hand, basic convertible bras—with straps and hooks that can be used multiple ways—are versatile enough for everyday wear.
How Sizes Work
Find Your Size
Now it’s time to measure. This is best done with your breasts bare (or in an unpadded bra if you already own one) and in front of a mirror. It’s OK to feel ridiculous! You can do this yourself or with the help of a friend or family member.
To get your band size: Run the tape measure all the way around your torso, just under your breasts. Look in the mirror to make sure it’s even all the way around, and pull the tape so it’s a bit snug. If you get an even number, like 36, that’s usually the right band size for you. If you get an odd number like 33, you’ll want to try on sizes 32 and 34 to see which one feels comfortable.
Note: Band sizes only come in even numbers.
To get your cup size: Bend forward so that your torso is parallel to the floor and your breasts hang straight downward. Put the tape measure evenly around your body again, but this time over the fullest part of your breasts. Pull the tape fairly lightly—not so that it presses into your breasts.
Now you have two numbers. Subtract your band measurement from your breast measurement. If the difference is:
Less than 1 inch = AA
1 inch = A
2 inches = B
3 inches = C
4 inches = D
5 inches = DD
Now you have your size! If you measure more than once, don’t sweat it if you get two different measurements. Go ahead and try both. Remember, a measurement is just a guide; it tells you the size that will probably fit you best in most brands, but you won’t know for sure until you try on different bras.
The Importance of Trying On Bras
Consider this: It’s easiest to try on bras in-store first before you order them online.
To try on bras correctly:
- Lean over, torso parallel to the ground, and scoop your breasts into the bra cups. They will sit in a fuller position than if you put on a bra while standing straight with your breasts hanging down.
- The band usually has several sets of hooks that allow you to make it looser or tighter. Choose the smallest band you’re comfortable wearing, and use the widest hook setting. Note: The purpose of the smaller settings is so that you can tighten the band as the elastic wears out.
- Make sure to adjust the shoulder straps.
If a bra feels too big or small in any way, go ahead and try a smaller size. Keep in mind that band and cup sizes increase together proportionately, so if you go up a band size, the cups will get bigger, too.
For example, if you try on a 34B but want a bigger band, the 36B will also give you slightly fuller cups. If you want the wider band without an increased cup size, per the B cup example, you should choose a 36A. This is called “sister sizing.” For instance, someone who measures as a 34B might also be a good fit for a 32C.
How Bras Should Fit and Feel
Is the band snug but not digging into your skin? It should be even around your body, not riding up in the back.
Are the cups full but not overfull? If you have empty space or wrinkling, they’re too big. If you’re spilling over the top or out the sides, they’re too small.
If there’s underwire, does it curve around the bottom of your breasts? It should never poke you anywhere or sit against your breast tissue.
The fabric between the cups should lay flat against your chest. It should not be floating in the air between your breasts unless you have especially full and close breasts.
The straps should feel flat and secure on your shoulders, not like they’re pulling on you or falling off. The straps aren’t designed to do much work because the band should be providing most of the actual breast support.
Additional Tips
When trying on bras, see how they look under a T-shirt for shape, smoothness, and color. For example, bras with lace or seams on the cups might look too lumpy under a thin shirt compared to smoother, seamless bras.
Skin-tone bras are less noticeable under light-colored clothes than bright white options.
Consider what color clothes you wear most often when deciding on light bras or bras that are dark or patterned.
Don’t be surprised if your breast size varies a little (or a lot!) during your menstrual cycle. You probably don’t need multiple bra sizes, but you might notice that they feel slightly looser or tighter at times.
Continue checking your bra size at least once a year. Your breast size and shape can continue to change throughout adolescence (and forever) due to growth, weight, and hormone changes.
It’s common to have breasts that are different sizes, especially while you’re developing. A favorite solution for this is to buy a bra with removable padding and to remove the padding from the cup of the larger breast. Alternatively, you can choose a regular bra to fit the larger breast and adjust the strap on the side with the smaller breast.
It’s helpful to have at least two to three bras so that you can alternate wearing them. This also ensures the elastic lasts longer. Additionally, you can wear bras a few times between washings.